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The other side of Riviera Maya

Home > Ecology and Nature Conservation > The other side of Riviera Maya

An ex-pat perspective on mainstream tourism repercussions

If you are thinking about coming to Mexico, you will probably have the Caribbean area in mind. Your neighbours or family may have already told you about destinations like Cancun, Playa del Carmen or Tulum, and you must be dreaming about the idea of the perfect holidays in paradise.

“The tourism industry is the main income for Mexico; and Riviera Maya the first-holiday destination. Consequently, I moved there looking for a wide range of job opportunities. However, I left to Queretaro after a few years, tired of the hypocrisy of this ferocious sector…”

 

When I arrived in Playa del Carmen in 2011 my brother had already lived there for some years. During the first months, I had the chance to take a bite of their fancy way of travelling: Luxurious shuttles, all-inclusive resorts and comfy tours… You could breathe the wealth-building in that place. Moreover, everything seemed amazing at first sight: beaches, cenotes, islands, clubs, etc.

María at the beach in Playa del Carmen
María at the beach in Playa del Carmen
Exploring Cobá Ruins
Exploring Cobá Ruins
Witnessing changes…

My first job was as an editor at a local newspaper. In there, I learnt how every single thing revolved around tourism. Statistics, hotel occupancy rates or spring break results were always the main topics even when they were not the most interesting.

Since all the population worked somehow for the tourism industry, the panic started every time the numbers dropped or a hurricane was about to come. The area was known as one of the safest in Mexico, and no one wanted to put in danger that precious money income.

“It was very common to hear how beautiful and peaceful Playa del Carmen was some years ago, but the truth is that I witnessed many changes during my first years”

 

The population increased dramatically just in a few years. Huge hotels started to colonize beaches, eroding them. In addition, locals lost some privileges that were now exclusively for visitors, such us going to certain beaches. It was clear that that wild development was damaging the paradise.

Wild dogs play with the garbage laid at the coast of Quintana Roo State, a "not so idyllic" image
Wild dogs play with the garbage laid at the coast of Quintana Roo State, a "not so idyllic" image
Making the situation visible

At the newspaper, I met Carlos Underwood, an intrepid reporter whose expertise was on ecology and environmental topics. He gave me the opportunity of being part of a project that became an awarded documentary: “Erosion”.

“What the team found through interviews with scientists, town chroniclers, politicians and the old town’s file footages was disheartening.”

 

While investigating, we realized permissions to build on the seafront were randomly given, causing the disappearance of local beaches. Homes and hotels’ sewage was -and still is- connected directly to the ocean without processing. And Calica, an American miner company, was blowing up a huge jungle area and destroying the habitat of dozens of endangered species.

Calica Quarry in Quintana Roo State
Calica Quarry in Quintana Roo State
Documentary "Erosion"
Documentary "Erosion"

Basically, the local government’s environmental projects showed on newspapers were a bluff. Moreover, scientists were already mentally prepared for the final damage made by mass tourism to the destination. Even when it was in front of their eyes all the time, the local audience completely shocked with our documentary.

“I’m very sceptical about authorities’ solutions to these issues, but choosing a different way of visiting places will be always at our hand…”

 

Yucatan peninsula is a beautiful region and many parts can be still preserved. Please think twice before choosing a big resort or a fancy hotel-boutique to stay. Take a look first on how they show their beachfront on their website and how it really is. Ask yourself how they can get their energy in the middle of the jungle… Are they really eco-hotels? And last but not least, watch my friend’s wonderful documentary here!

About the author

Co-Founder of LUPITA OVERLAND ADVENTURES and Travel Writer

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